Help With Trip Out West

Lindsey, Texas, Bud....I am cracking up! Sure explains some of the responses to JJ's poll on dishware...!

 

Ditto on the recommendation for Custer State Park - nice park with great sites by the lake. I do not recommend Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone - sites are too close and mosquitos are terrible. Unfortunately, FB is the only CG with full hookups in YNP. If we ever go back, we will stay at some of the other CGs and move in a few days.

While in MT at Glacier NP, we stay at East Glacier Meadows. Another great place to camp for a week or so but you will have to drive quite a bit to see all the sites - and you will not be able to drive your MH over the "Road to the Sun".

If you are going to be in Idaho, stay somewhere around the Snake River (we stayed at Declo, ID) and saw City of Rocks, Shoshone Falls, Balancing rock, and One Thousand Springs.

And if you are going to Utah, there are many NP to see there but our favorite was Arches NP at Moab, UT.

Happy Trails and safe travels.

 

We returned home on June 20th after a 2 ¾ month road trip that took us from Jacksonville, FL to San Diego (via Monument Valley, Moab, SLC, Bryce, Zions, Las Vegas, and Tucson), North to Vancouver (via Sequoia, Yosemite, Napa, Chico, Portland, Astoria, and the Cook Canal, East from Vancouver to Banff (included a drive half up the Glacier HWY to Jasper), South from Banff to Glacier (both U.S. and Canadian parks), and then Southeast back to the Jacksonville area. Whereas we had driven the Southeasterly route before and had a daughter with some medical problems, we dead-headed home with no stops exceeding an overnighter someplace.

Two years ago we did a variation of the same trip, but returned from California via SLC, Yellowstone, Cody, Custer Battlefield National Monument, Deadwood, and Mt. Rushmore (also included driving thru the Bad Lands.

Here are my recommendations:

1. Allocate sufficient time so that you can take a true rest from driving every third day or so. You need some time to take a brain fart, just chill out, read, fish, watch TV, or get caught-up on emails. Driving every day, be it point to point or sight seeing will eventually wear you out.
2. You are going right by them on your way to Mt. Rushmore, so drive thru the Bad Lands on the way.
3. Anticipate one very full day for Mt. Rushmore, Deadwood and environs.
4. A good spot to overnite en route to Cody from Deadwood/Mt. Rushmore is near the Custer Battlefield National Monument. There is a nice RV park South of the park where you can overnite. Depending on what time you arrive in the P.M., you might be able to visit the park that day. As “Britboy” mentioned it is a fascinating and historical stop that will give you a much better perspective of what happened and might even change how you may think about Custer’s actions.
5. From the Little Big Horn it is a one-day drive (easy drive) to Cody. Spend a day in Cody. Visit the Cody Museum and have a drink at the Erma Hotel.
6. The next day head West to Yellowstone. Follow “kcmoedoe’s” advise about where to stay while at Yellowstone. If you stay East or South of the park, you’ll end up doing a lot more driving every day. Our last visit to Yellowstone was in mid-May 2 years ago. We avoided summer crowds and saw plenty of wildlife. However, this is probably to early for your next stop at Glacier.
7. We were at Glacier on June 13th and 14th of this year. We stayed at the KOA in St. Marys. We found the KOA to be well laid out, clean, and would recommend staying there. The staff were very friendly and helpful. There is another RV park overlooking St. Marys that members of another forum I belong to really like. The Highway to the Sun was closed 16 miles from the East Gate and wasn’t expected to open until sometime in early July. It was closed due to damage caused by the effects of the winter weather (avalanches). This meant we had to drive around, rather than thru the park to visit the West side. Both sides are unique and merit visiting.
8. I also recommend an overnight stop at the Canadian side of Glacier International Peace Park. Totally different views accented by a quaint village.
9. From there it is an easy drive to Banff. Reserve a space at the National Park’s RV Park. You can do that on-line in advance. They have bus service into Banff where you can rent a car. You’ll want to spend some time at Lake Louise and you might consider using the rental car to make your round trip drive up to Jasper and back (that idea won’t work if you have pets and intended on overnighting in Jasper. We were there from June 7th-12th and had only one full day without rain or snow (the day we drove half way to Jasper---turned around at the Columbian Ice Field Visitors Center). We had 4 separate black bear sightings (they were along side the road) and got within 10 feet of a herd of big horn sheep.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all the great advice. Jasper looks like it needs more time-- actually every place needs more time!

 

Every one complains about Fishing Bridge, and most of what is said is true. The fact off the matter is you are there to tour Yellowstone and will probable spend very little time at the campground and it is a very good location to tour from. If I were short on time I would pass up Little Big Horn.
10 years ago I would have recommed Jackson. To day it is a tourest trap.
A trip like you are planning should give you a life time of wonderful memories. I would good to the places that are unique to the area. Thing that you will not find in the midwest and eastern part of the country. The mountains and the wildlife are very unique In Wyoming and S. Dakota.
I have been lucky enough to spend every summer for the last 15 in ther west , mostly in Wyoming and Utah, and wqould not trade it for any thing. Hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

 

We visited Yellowstone years ago and stayed at "Fishing Bridge Campground". Full hook-ups, hard-sided units only. This campground is right inside the park itself and we used it as our home base while touring Yellowstone. I'm assuming this campground is still open and operating under the same name. I would highly recommend this campground, we found it very nice. Happy traveling on your trip west!

 

Joe n Doe...great review! If you don't mind...where did you all stay in the Astoria area?

 

In the Mt. Rushmore area you can't do better than Hart Ranch. It's a membership park, but you can stay there for three nights for $39.99 on a promotional stay. No high-pressure sales pitch.
Hart Ranch You can make a reservation with a phone call. There is no need to fill in the onlne form.

 

FosterImposters,

We stayed at Fort Stevens in Warrenton. It is a former Army fort, part of the old coastal artillery defense network for the mouth of the Columbian River. After being deactivated following WWII, it was integrated into the Oregon State Park system. It is a big park with a large RV/Camping area. It is complete with remnants of gun and bunker complexes. It is a close drive to Astoria and other places worthwhile to visit in that area. We had a mini-reunion with 3 of my siblings and their rigs. One of my brothers lives in Warrenton and showed us around.

 

Thanks for the advice. I still would love to hear from anyone who has been out that way. The Hart Ranch suggestion looks good. Thanks

 

I guess you are getting a little rain and wind Bud. We have had about 4" and are expecting about 4" more before Fay departs us. The winds have been steady at about 45 to 50 mph (they say). Our lake is very low and we sure need the rain, but this wind is getting on my nerves. I have been thru a whole lot of these and this one sure has a mind of it's own.

 

Yes we didn't have much rain or wind until this afternoon and it has been raining ever since. Gust of wind up to maybe 20 -25 mph. I hate these storms that just hang around. I really feel for the people over near Coca Beach. Pulled out of Jetty Park on Sunday. They really can't handle this kind of rain. I guess we are just getting what we have been praying for-- RAIN-- but we may have caught up some!

 

In going from Estes Park to Jackson Hole, I have seen two roads suggested one is 287 and the other is 191. 191 looks like it would be less difficult with a motorhome. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Here are a couple suggestions for you. If you are staying in Jackson you might like to stay at the virginian. You can take a bus or walk to most of the stuff in town. You can also tour the badlands in the coach but one road is too narrow but you can do the loop and see most of it from the coach no problem. It is interesting and you can overnight near wall drug. We stayed at sleepy hollow when we went that way and it was a nice campground and an easy walk to all drug and then left the next morning and did the loop of the badlands on our way to Yellowstone. I will tell you to be prepared for wild swings in temps. It was 110 in rapid city and when I woke up the next mornignin the mountains it was 28 and this was in august. We stayed at the KOA right outside of glacier on the west side I think. It was the nicest KOA I have ever stayed at. In Yellowstone I would stay at fishing bridge.I know it is a parking lot and close but it is in hte center of the park and youwill save hours of drive time and the roads go very slow due to animals and even construction.

If you stay in Fishing Bridge you will gain a whole day to see other sites in just the travel time you will save to west yellowstone. Though Grizzle in W. Yellowstone is nice.

You have a great trip planned but I doubt I would go that far and not tow the jeep.I had an issue in Yellowstone one time and needed a tire and they did not let tire people in the park since they sold the rights to a consessionier.Finally I talked to the head of the park and said you have to let him in as the guys you hired can nto take the wheel off as they do not have equipment big enough or I will stay here all year.....and you can dig me out in the summer.

He relented and let them in and it was fine but I was going to have to go get the tire myself and then change it myself. I can do it but did not want too....as it it huge and heavy on a DP.
When you go back home then you need to take the northern route and see that country and that will be a change. You can stop in Iowa and IN and IL and OH and PA on the way if you wish or you can drive through and see where you want to go next.

 

Thanks for the suggestions John-- we do plan to take in the Badlands-- I remember driving that loop many years ago and it was like being on the moon. I am planning on staying at Coulter Bay RV park in the Teatons and then moving up to West Yellowstone. I do plan to rent a car for the time there. I was hoping to be able to rent for a week and pick it up in Jackson and then drop it off in West Yellowstone-- but you can't do that. Seems the independent franchise people don't want to have to go get their cars. Too bad cause the daily rate is a lot more than the weekly rate. But that is the price of not having a TOAD. Right now I am leaning toward taking 191 into Jackson rather than 287, but still would like to hear from anyone who has driven those roads.
John-- I do plan on staying at the West Glacier KOA-- looks nice and I have some KOA coupons so it will be reasonable. Thanks again for all the help-- keep it coming

 

QUOTE(Bud in Florida @ Jul 16 2008, 08:27 AM) [snapback]12289[/snapback]

Hi Guys and Gals-- My wife and I are starting to plan a trip out west in 2009...........



Hello Bud;

I'm not sure how much time you have allotted for the Banff/Jasper leg of your trip but I'll add my two cents.

Having grown up and lived in the area most of my life I'll list some of the hi-lites then give you more via e-mail if you like. Between Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper, there just isn't enough room to list them all here.

You can lightly skim the surface of the Banff area in a couple of days. The Lake Louise area another couple. The drive from Lake Louse up the Icefield Parkway another couple and a couple in Jasper. Personally, depending on your time frame, I would pass on Jasper and only go up as far as the Columbia Icefields. Jasper is nice but a smaller version of Banff. There is spectacular scenery in and around Jasper but IMO everywhere in the Rockies is spectacular! Even to just skim the surface you will need a week.

There are only two RV parks that have Power and Water in the Banff/Lake Louise area. Tunnel Mountain (somewhat close to the Banff town site) and Lake Louise Trailer Park (about 30 miles west of the Banff in the Louise town site. If you can boondock, there are some nice spots along the 1A (Scenic Parkway) between Banff and Louise. The town of Banff is the only place within the National Park where you will find a rental vehicle. The Banff/Louise Parkway is a MUST drive. Preferably in the evening. Chances of seeing wildlife is much greater then.

In and around the Banff town site area:
>Banff Hot Springs (for a soak after a day of walking/hiking)
>Sulfur Mountain Gondola (or you can walk the trail to the top of Sulfur Mountain) for an
incredible view.
>Scenic drive up to the Mount Norquay Ski Lodge.
>Scenic drive to and from Lake Minnewanka.
>Bow Falls (not very high but pretty) and a walk in and around the Banff Springs Hotel.
>Golf the Banff Springs course.
>Mid summer, Banff Avenue is very busy but still worth the stroll.
>Cascade Gardens (Park Administration Building grounds).

In and around Lake Louise:
> Obviously to see Lake Louise and the Chateau.
> A hike (or horse back ride) to the Lake Agnes Tea House (farther if you have the energy).
> Scenic drive to the absolutely beautiful Morraine Lake. (Nicer than Louise IMO). Great hiking
in the area.
> Head west from Lake Louise towards the town of Field, British Columbia. You will pass by a
pull out for the Spiral Tunnels (Worth a look if you get lucky and a train is passing by) then
exit to Takakkaw Falls. Second highest Falls in North America (I think?).

Pack up your rig and Move on to the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper. There are no full service RV Parks between Lake Louise and Jasper but a good number of dry camp sites. I recommend Waterfowl Lake. It's no too far from the Columbia Icefields (about 30 miles). There is RV Parking at the Ice Fields.

Plenty to see on the Drive up from Louise. There are a couple of big climbs but the road is good. Definitely go for a ride on a Snowcoach onto the Glacier at the Columbia Ice Fields.

Let me know if you want more info.

Darrell jdollen1@telus.net

 

Hi Bud,

Sounds like a great trip! We were in Glacier and Alberta, Canada this summer - check out the info we provided on our travel blog. Go back to July & August, and you'll find a ton of information. Feel free to email if you have any specific questions.

Happy Travels!
Suzanne & Brad

 

Hi
Hi Bud,

My husband and I just came back from a trip out west and we spent just under one month on our wonderful vacation. I saw your posting. We stayed in Rocky Mountain Park and camped in Moraine park. Estes Park is the closest town to Morine Park campground in Rocky mountain.
We did see a campground when we exited Rocky Mountain park in Estes. It seemed okand had hookups. In Rocky mountain there were no hookups....but the view was unbelievable!!
We had elk right outside our bedroom window in the early morning.
If you need more info on Moraine Park please dont hesitate to send me an email.
Estes Park nice town to stroll in for shopping and a fantastic place for breakfast is the Egg and I.
Not associated with the Egg and I in Rotonda, Fla. ( we asked)

And we had no problems driving in the mountains.. we have a diesel pusher so the jake brake came in handy and the torque for the climbs. We did smell brakes from cars and other rvs, but I wasnt sure if you had gas or diesel.

Again if I can be of any help please send me an email cjohnson@arinc.om
Happy camping!
C J

 

Hello,
You didn't indicate if your trip west will take you to the southwest. If time allows, I would HIGHLY recommend Southern Utah. We've rv'd Utah two times and will again. It is one of our most memorable trips. You will see sights there that can not be found in any other place in the world. We went to Arches Natl Park, Dead Horse State Park, Bryce Natl Park and Zion Natl Park, I promise you, you will not regret the extra driving should you decide to take it in.

Happy RVing!
Doris

 

Thanks for all the great information. I can't believe we leave in less than 2 months. We are not doing the southwest this time. Both of us have been there and with limited time and money something had to get cut. I really appreciate all of you taking time to post suggestions!