" Water Pumps??? "

Discussion in 'Towing, Vehicles, Maintenance and Repairs' started by BankShot, Jan 14, 2016.

  1. BankShot

    BankShot
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    We are going to replace the water pump due to a very small leak that I don't want to take with us on our next trip Ours is a Shurflo however I can't stick my head into the bay far enough to find out what model it is. It's probably either a 2.8 or a 3.5 gpm pump but my question is this. Would it be advisable to go to a higher gmp pump that the stock unit is? Our water flow is okay but it would be nice to have a bit more of a stream when we turn on the faucet or take a shower. My thinking is that if we go one size up that will give a slightly better flow but I don't want to overload the factory piping or put undue pressure on anything. Silly question perhaps but anyone out there that knows about, and has had experience with water pumps can jump in here in lend me some advice if they will. In return I will be more than happy to return the advice on something I do know a lot about........ :)

    Thanks folks, BankShot
     
  2. NYDutch

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    Flow does not equal pressure. Think of it like a highway. A two lane road can handle less traffic "flow" than a four lane road, but the traffic speed "pressure" could be the same, more, or less, on either one. A higher flow pump will not damage the plumbing, but the size of the pipes and fixture openings could be a limiting factor giving a higher flow rate capable pump no advantage. For instance, the EPA limits residential faucets to 2.2 GPM at 60 PSI ("WaterSense" rated faucets are 1.5 GPM max). Most of the Shurflo pumps have an adjustable pressure switch, and that might be helpful if your current pump is kicking off too low.
     
  3. BankShot

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    Thanks NYDutch for the response to my question. I understand what you said and it makes sense. I was not aware that Shurflo pumps have an adjustable pressure switch and will ask the guy I use for this type of repair to check that out and make the proper adjustment on the new one we choose to install. One really great thing about this forum is that I learn something new just about every time I go on it or ask a question, We've had this coach going on four years now and I still haven't stopped learning new things about it from this forum.................

    Regards, BankShot
     
  4. NYDutch

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    The adjustable models usually have an adjusting screw in the center of the pressure switch mounted on the "nose" of the pump. It looks like a Phillips head screw. Changing the setting will raise or lower the pressures where the pump will turn on or off, but the "spread", the range between them, is fixed. Your RV guy should know how to adjust the pressure, but if not, the instructions are in the manual if the model you choose is adjustable.
     
  5. Jack B

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    I don't know much about water pumps in RV's, but years ago I lived rurally where the water table was high. We were allowed to have a "Point" rather than a dug/drilled well. The pump was in my basement and sat on a pressure tank. Seemed like a good system.
    When I got my first RV, a Gulfstream "C", the water did not seem adequate so I asked if there was a pressure tank for RV's. There was and I had one installed. It was great! Not only had increased flow, but it put an end to cycling that was driving us crazy.
     
  6. BankShot

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    Jack B brings up a good point. Our pump constantly cycles on and off 24/7 when we aren't hooked up. Not a problem during the day but at night it can and has woken me up with its constant "pressurizing sound" that it makes. Never heard of a pressure tank that would eliminate this but perhaps I will ask the guy that comes to our place if he knows about them and if it would be worthwhile installing one, etc. Thanks for the tip Jack B.................

    Regards, BankShot
     
  7. NYDutch

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    I've added an accumulator "pressure" tank to each of our last three RV's. The 2 gallon tank does not increase the water pressure or volume, but it does store enough pressurized water to allow a few toilet flushes during the night without the pump kicking on. That's actually the primary advantage of an accumulator tank, it reduces the amount of pump cycling. The pump does run longer each cycle of course, but the fewer starts and stops is better for the pump motor. Our tank came from Home Depot and cost much less than the 2 gallon tank Shurflo sells.
     
  8. drfife

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    You probably have a small leak in your water system. The pump should not be losing head pressure if closed and not leaking.
     
  9. docj

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    It could be a "real" leak or something as small as a faucet that drips slowly. I'd start at each faucet and work backwards as far as I could follow the plumbing. Also, check all around the pump itself. These small leaks can be quite difficult to locate.
     
  10. BankShot

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    I had been wondering that myself, was there a small leak somewhere in the system, so I checked under the coach and inside the bay but found no trace of water anywhere. Also checked the faucets and toilet to make sure all was good. Even checked under the fridge for a possible leak there but nothing. So I just let it go and figured it must just be how that particular pump was designed to work. The guy is coming out Wed. to install a new pump and will check everything over while he's there.The old pump was 2.5 gmp at 40# pressure, the new one will be 3 gpm at 55# pressure so we should be good to go shortly with no worries or concerns on our upcoming desert trip................

    Thanks again everyone for your input on this one................... BankShot
     
  11. docj

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    With all due respect, I am confident that you have a leak, you simply haven't found it yet. A few months ago I found a tiny pinhole leak in the small plastic tubing going to my icemaker. It was hidden in the outside fridge enclosure which is sealed shut because we now have a residential fridge. It was pure luck that I came upon it. Keep on looking!
     
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  12. drfife

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    I agree, and the new pump will cycle like the old one until the leak is found and corrected.
     
  13. NYDutch

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    With a higher pressure pump, the leak may be found even quicker... :D
     
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  14. BankShot

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    When the guy come out Wed. he and I will do a thorough check to see if we can't find a leak somewhere in the system. I agree, with a higher pressure pump perhaps we can locate the leak quicker and fix it. Must be a very tiny leak somewhere that is allowing the water from the leak to evaporate before it finds a way to the outside or becomes noticeable inside the coach. It's been doing this for the four years we've owned the coach and we both thought it was normal so we kinda-sorta just let it go........... :oops:
     
  15. NYDutch

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    It could also just be a weak or misadjusted pressure switch.
     
  16. mdcamping

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    Pump has build up pressure and hold, besides a possible leak could also be a check valve leaking by. (allowing water to slowly feed back to the fresh water tank)

    Mike
     
  17. BankShot

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    Got that water pump replaced and all is working as it should once again. Found out that the constant cycling on & off with the old pump was caused internally in the pump itself and that there was no leak in the system. Tested the new pump and no more cycling, just the normal cycling after using the taps, etc. I had the guy install a 3.0 @ 60 psi pump to replace the old 2.5 @ 45 psi and even by just going up that one size large we now have a tad more flow at the faucets and when taking a shower that little added bit of flow will be greatly appreciated. I had my fingers crossed that the new pump would eliminate the constant cycling and not have us searching further for a leak. Our annual trek to the desert looms ahead so now we won't have any worries about that old pump calling it quits on us out there in the boonies.............. :D
     
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  18. NYDutch

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    Great! I'm sure that's a load off your mind...
     

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